Trekking Summit Day

 

September 3

We’re up at 1:00 am, packing everything up, forcing down some breakfast and walking by 2:40 am with headlamps on.  The dark sky is full of stars and we’re excited for some clear weather today.  Our team looks like a line of fireflies winding our way up the trail towards Larkya Pass.  Hiking in the dark is unique because your mind wanders and time passes as your eyes are trained on the circle of light on the ground showing the way.  This is a time that I savor even though I’m tired from a short sleep.  Group conversation is low or non-existent so the sounds are limited to our footsteps on the rough ground and the flowing stream cascading down the mountain.

After a few hours, the sky begins to lighten and over the next hour, dawn breaks.  We awaken from our own thoughts and chatter increases throughout the team.  With the morning fully awake, we stop at a high teahouse in Dangboche just below the steep switchbacks that lead up to Larkya pass.  Some hot tea helps us shake off the chill and gives us a break from the continuous uphill travel.  

Back on the trail again and the clouds are building.  It looks like we’re heading right up and into the clouds before we reach the pass.  It’s a steep climb and most everyone is feeling the elevation.  A few of us are also dealing with GI issues which is common when eating at remote places in the world.  We enter the clouds at roughly 15,000 ft elevation and experience a temperature drop with humidity at 100%. 

Another hour or so and a light rain begins.  I guess it’s more of a heavy mist with a few pieces of grapple thrown in for good measure.  Umbrellas up again and this is how it goes to the summit of Larkya Pass.  Of course, at the top. There’s some wind to add to the fun.  We’re staying positive but this is no place to be hanging around when it’s wet and breezy.  We just climbed about 4,800 ft to roughly 16,800 ft elevation in 5 or 6 miles and there’s a long way to go downhill from here to the small village of Samdo. 

We’ve put in quite a few miles and elevation gain over the past handful of days and a couple hours down from Larkya Pass, fatigue begins to set in.  For much of the way, the trail down is in good shape and less rocky than the steep other side which helps us keep moving efficiently.  Our next goal is a small outpost called Darmsala where there’s supposed to be a teahouse.  This is also a possible stopping point for the night but it’s cold and quite rustic so we would only use it if someone is really struggling.  After what seems like forever, we arrive at the teahouse and are rewarded with some ramen soup and hot tea. 

Feeling somewhat refreshed after this stop, we head to Samdo.  It takes us a solid 2-1/2 hours more and we are spent when we get there.  The Zambala teahouse hotel is surprisingly nice for being this remote and we enjoy a simple dinner before crashing in our rooms.  Today’s total is just over 14 miles and 4813 feet of elevation gain with a duration of 15-1/2 hours.  That’s a big day!